Should You Be Concerned About The Pet Food Recall? By Aaron Wilmont

Many dog and cat owners are worried that the food they have been feeding their pet may not be as safe, much less as nutritionally balanced, as they were led to believe.

This concern is perfectly understandable, particularly since tainted dog and cat food has been linked to the deaths of at least 23 animals.

After all, the current recall has been quite widespread, with over fifty dog brands and more than forty cat brands recalled at this time, including some of the largest brand names out there such as Iams, Best Choice and Eukanuba. In a March 21, 2007 Newsweek article by journalist Matthew Philips entitled 'Is pet food properly regulated?' the report states:' .....authorities still cannot explain exactly what went wrong. Some critics and animal lovers are honing in on what they see as lax regulation of the fifteen billion dollar pet-food industry in the United States.' It should be noted that this recall has not only impacted the U.S. Canada and mexico as well.

'There is almost a void there,' states Bob Vetere, president of the APPMA, or the American Pet Product Manufacturers Association. 'There is no real pet-food department of any federal agency.' This news is very troubling, but it comes as no surprise to some. I have been hearing about the rendering plants for a while now, and it is clear to me that where there is smoke there is usually fire.

Sadly, the standard was low from the start.

The first dog food sold was produced in 1860. A salesman named James Pratt was visiting Great Britain from America and saw dogs surviving off of mere left-over biscuits from ships. So he decided to prepare a dog biscuit product consisting of wheat meal and meat, and begin selling them entirely to English rural gentlemen who owned sporting dogs. So at one time dogs subsisted of of scraps, meaning the quality of the produced food never had to be particularly high.

The current problem has been linked to rat poison by some sources, but there are many, many other problems with mainstream brands as well.

For example, artificial coloring is used extensively despite the fact that they are totally unnecessary and have been linked to medical issues. It is believed by some in the medical field that if an ingredient is foreign to the body the body reacts to it and can cause numerous health problems.

Pets are not concerned about color too much.

In addition, by-products are a way for dog food or cat food companies to keep their costs down and therefore profits up. Instead of using whole meats, they simply use by-products instead. These are simply the least desirable parts.

And there are a number of other items which the labels do not always reveal. For instance, condemned parts of animals which are not fit for human consumption are often rerouted into commercial treats. These parts may be the parts of animals who are dead, dying, decayed or actually diseased. Furthermore, specific meats & other ingredients can't be sold for use by people, because it is damaged or has some other kind of defect. The dimensions of the problem may be so sizeable that we might not know the reasons for this tragedy for some time. According to a recent MSNBC article, 'Some of the 60 million cans and pouches of food have been blamed for kidney failure in scores of animals and killed over 16 pets. Neither the manufacturer nor the authorities have been able to determine why the pets died'.

The article mentioned that articles are already being filed by consumers, which calls into question the future of some of these pet food firms.

Should you stick with a mainstream brand or go to a premium grade food? Considering that many of the mainstream brands are owned by the same parent company.

I would be inclined to go with the latter. Who knows what brand will be recalled next.

The best brand I an aware of is Life's Abundance but there are several top notch premium pet foods out there to choose from. Look for whole food ingredients and freshness above all else. The ones that mention they are human grade are also usually a safe bet in my experience.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140236&ca=Pets

Teaching Your Puppy Bite Inhibition By Kevin Lynch

Bite Inhibition is one of the most important things your puppy must learn to become a well-trained, respectable dog. Bite inhibition is a learned response in which your dog will consciously inhibit the full force of his biting ability. Without learning bite inhibition a dog can severely injure or even possibly kill another dog or even a child.

Puppies learn bite inhibition during the socialization of nursing and playing. If a puppy bites while nursing the mother dog will get up and walk away. If the puppy bites too hard while playing with his littermates, the bitten puppy will yelp and stop playing with the biting puppy. This teaches the puppy that all playing must stop if he bites too hard.

A puppy should learn bite inhibition by the time he is four and a half months of age. Since many puppies are taken from their mothers and other littermates before this time, it becomes necessary for the new owners to take over the role of teaching bite inhibition.

When you are teaching your puppy bite inhibition treat him as his mother and his littermates would. When he bites too hard, get up and walk away, make sure he knows that when he bites too hard all play must stop.

Some ideas you can use to teach bite inhibition are

Sit down and start playing with your puppy. Bring his attention to your hands. When your puppy starts to bite your hands too hard say “Ow” firmly and stop playing and stop all interaction. Do not look at your puppy but avert your eyes to the side away from your pup. He needs to know that you are serious about stopping the play.

Make sure that your response is short and firm. If you whine or wince your puppy may think that you are still playing and you have defeated your purpose.

After some time has passed, face your pup again and offer your hand if he tries to bite again, repeat the process.

If your puppy is just nipping at you or your clothes you can offer a toy to chew on. If he is not interested in the toy but keeps on nipping, you should withdraw all attention. You can even walk away.

As you practice this, your puppy should be using less and less pressure as he is playing with you. Your first goal should be to inhibit the force of his bite and then to reduce the frequency of his bite. If he is never allowed to use even a light bite, when faced with a situation of stress he will probably react with a overly strong bite and could hurt someone unintentionally.

Bite Inhibition is an important part of training and socializing your dog. It is easier to teach a puppy bite inhibition but even older dogs can learn with some patience and good training.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141060&ca=Pets

Blue And Gold Macaw Of The Rainforest By Anna Hart

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is found mainly in tropical South America. Bolivia, Brazil, Ecuador, northern Paraguay, and eastern Peru all offer the kind of home the macaw parrot needs. The blue and gold macaw's natural habitat includes open marshlands and woodlands, but the rainforest, with its large trees is a favored habitat.

Blue and Gold Macaw Population Density

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is an endangered species. Because of hunting, trapping for the pet trade, and destruction of their habitat, blue and gold macaws are gradually disappearing from the rainforest, as well as other areas.

Habitat destruction appears to be the greatest danger to blue and gold macaw population density. Logging, in particular, removes the largest trees – the ones macaws favor for nesting. Without suitable nesting sites, the blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is doomed to extinction.

Perhaps the second greatest danger to the blue and gold macaw is the pet trade. Traders climb trees to remove chicks from their nests. If climbing is too difficult, trees are felled, and chicks who survive the fall are taken. Few survive to maturity, rapidly decimating their numbers.

Blue and gold macaws are usually seen in pairs or family groups. At times, they may be seen in flocks of a dozen or so. Sadly, such sightings are becoming increasingly uncommon. The blue and gold macaw population density in the wild is already much lower than the numbers in captivity. Some put the total of those in the rainforest at no more than 200 pairs.

Coloring

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is almost entirely bright aqua blue and golden yellow. The wings are tipped with a bright true blue. Since both male and female look identical, breeders must use a blood test or DNA test to determine gender. The blue and gold macaw has a creamy white face, with distinctive black feather lines and green forehead.

Size

A full-grown blue and gold macaw is one of the largest parrots in the world.

* Length – Male: 34-36 inches
* Length – Female: 32-34 inches
* Weight – Male: 2-2 3/4 pounds
* Weight – Female: slightly smaller
* Wingspan – Male: 41-45 inches
* Wingspan – Female: slightly smaller

Temperament

Of all the parrots of the world, the blue and gold macaw is said to have one of the mildest, most easy-going temperaments. Unlike some parrot species, the blue and gold macaw is willing to interact with various family members rather than being a one-person bird. It will, however, prefer one above the others.

Extremely intelligent, a blue and gold macaw can be taught both to talk and to do tricks. It mimics human words loudly and clearly. It is a very expressive bird, showing what it wants by cocking its head, flashing its eyes, and 'talking' to you. It may also fluff its feathers, bow, bob its head, and prance around.

A blue and gold macaw can become very tame and playful if hand-raised. They will always require a lot of attention, though. If they become bored, they can be very destructive.

Toys

Give a blue and gold macaw wood to chew, and he will forget about chewing things that are off-bounds. This parrot keeps its beak in good condition by chewing wood. It also relieves pent up energy by chewing wood. As a result, it chews very aggressively.

A variety of stimulating chew toys will keep it from becoming bored.

Food

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest usually eats bark and leaves, fruits, nuts, seeds, and vegetables, but it will also eat small animals in the wild. It visits clay licks to get mineral supplements into its diet, and to detoxify seeds.

In captivity, a blue and gold macaw will eat fresh pellets or seeds. It will need fresh fruits and vegetables daily, with old ones discarded after 24 hours. It will need a ready supply of fresh, clean, chlorine-free water, too.
The blue and gold macaw appreciates quality and variety in its food, and may let you know if it is not happy about what it receives.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139287&ca=Pets

Understanding Black Labrador Puppies By Anna Hart

When I write of a 'well-rounded' black Labrador puppy, you may immediately picture a round, roly-poly black puppy. That is not what we normally mean by the term, of course.

Understanding black Labrador puppies begins by grasping the fact that a well-rounded black Labrador puppy is one that has learned to get along with other dogs and with family members (including other pets). It is a puppy that has bonded with his 'pack' and fits in well. It has been socialized – but how do you socialize a black Labrador puppy?

Socializing the Black Labrador Puppy

All dogs are social creatures, but few are as social as a black Labrador puppy. A black Labrador puppy loves attention, and wants to get it from everyone and everything. A black Labrador puppy does not want to share, however, and must learn that every member of the 'pack' shares. He must learn how to respond to both human and animal members of his new pack.

Understanding black Labrador puppies involves 7 simple steps that help puppies become well-rounded.

1. Puppy Pats

Your black Labrador puppy needs to be patted, touched, and caressed. Most people do this instinctively from the time they get the puppy. Children, especially, touch the puppy in every possible place they can. The more children there are, the more puppy pats your black Labrador puppy will receive. Even if yours is a gun dog, and children are not playing with it, it still needs puppy pats. Let it feel your hand on its ears, its nose, and its paw pads. Get your black Labrador puppy accustomed to being touched and patted. It will help him fit into his new life. While you're at it, teach children how to treat the puppy.

2. Puppy Playtime

It is important that you and your black Labrador puppy have several playtimes each day. If possible, give him at least one in the morning and one in the evening, as this will establish a pattern for future exercise times. Teach your black Labrador puppy that you are his friend. Play fetch. Take a toy away, teaching the importance of sharing. Do not let him take it back in an aggressive manner. Hide a toy and let him hunt it.

3. Puppy Rolling Game

Every black Labrador puppy needs to be involved in frequent bouts of the puppy rolling game. This game shows the puppy that his position in your pack is one of submission. When playing with your black Labrador puppy, roll him on his side now and then. Hold him there as you silently count to 10. When you reach 10, remove your hand and let the puppy get up. If he struggles while you're holding him, do not let go. You must not let your black Labrador puppy overpower you, or he will believe he is the pack's dominant member.

4. Share-a-Puppy

A big part of understanding black Labrador puppies is recognizing that they need a wide circle of acquaintances. When you get your pup, note his age in a notebook. Subtract it from 24 weeks. If your puppy is 8 weeks old, you would subtract 24 - 8 = 16. In those weeks (whatever number you wrote), you need to share your puppy with at least 100 new people. If you wrote 16 weeks, set a goal of having your puppy meet 6-7 new people each week. Keep track so you know it is happening. Simply have strangers hold your black Labrador puppy, and touch it. Hand it back and forth carefully so it does not fall.

5. Share-a-Meal

A black Labrador puppy can quickly learn to be protective of his food dish. If left to natural instincts, he may become hostile when others come near his bowl. To avoid this, share a meal by sitting or standing close to the bowl when the pup is eating. Have other family members do the same. Teach your black Labrador puppy that his food is safe even when someone is very near.

6. Puppy Home School

From the time you get your black Labrador puppy, teach him every day. He is old enough to learn basic commands such as come; down; drop it; leave it; and sit. Avoid yelling at the puppy or punishing it. There are good Labrador training courses available on the Internet. Order one and use it faithfully.

7. Puppy Support Group

Please understand that a black Labrador puppy needs the constant support of everyone in his home. Life is full of exciting things, as well as frightening things. When a garbage truck comes banging down the street, he will tuck his little tail between his legs and run for cover. What do you do. You – and everyone else present – act as though nothing happened. Your black Labrador puppy will notice that he is the only one running. He will soon decide that, if no one else is afraid, the sound of garbage trucks is not important.

Understanding black Labrador puppies is an ongoing process, but these 7 steps will give you a good start.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139562&ca=Pets