Bird Feeders--Using Them to Attract Birds to Your Yard

There is no sweeter sound to be heard in a garden then that of chirping birds enjoying the environment. During the winter months, when a person is closed inside the house, nothing brightens up a day as watching birds enjoying a meal at your bird feeder. And this sentiment is shared by over 70 million people in the United States and Canada.

By providing food and shelter to these feathered creatures, these considerate humans are playing an important role in helping birds survive at a time when the bird population is taking a beating.

By knowing what plants satisfy birds, it becomes quite easy to attract them into a yard. Grosbeaks and cedar waxwings look for an assortment of berries. Goldfinches like their thistle, chickadees look for sunflowers, hummingbirds search for nectar and blue jays, of course, like to pick through compost piles. Birds, will, of course, hang out anywhere where they can find a good habitat and an assortment of feeders.

1. Other birds prefer the cover of dense shrubs.

Also, important to keep in mind is that birds need access to water year-round for preening their feathers to ensure good insulation and drinking. An outdoor water fountain, bird bath or pond can be an attractive garden accent and, at the same time, an important habitat feature.

Another consideration that must be made is in the styles of feeders. An assortment of several types will provide you with more of an assortment of feathered visitors. For instance, chickadees will eat from almost any feeder, including the palm of your hand. Other types of birds will, only, eat from a specific type of perch, feeding port or roof. The more of a variety of feeders provided guarantees a wider variety of visitors.

Feeders come in three primary types: platform, suet and elevated perching feeders. Platform feeders, which are, generally, situated at or a little above ground level, will attract a variety of ground-feeding birds such as cardinals and sparrows. Suet is a rendered beef-fat that attracts insect-eating birds such as nuthatches, chickadees and woodpeckers. Perching feeders, usually, have one or more seed ports with a perch. They are, usually, hung 5 to 6 feet off the ground. These types of feeders serve the culinary needs of finches, chickadees, blue jays and grosbeaks. Most perching feeders are designed to hold various seed mixtures. Thistle seed, the preferred food of finches, has a fine texture and, consequently, requires a feeder designed, specifically, for that seed.

If providing more than one feeder in your yard, separating them will encourage more birds to feed at the same time.

There is much pleasure to be found for the price of a feeder and a few pounds of bird feed. Either way, this activity can become a life-saver for a lot of feathery friends and a source of joy for the caretaker. We carry a large selection of bird houses, bird feeders, indoor/outdoor water fountains and garden statuary to beautify your home and environs. There is something for every taste and every pocket. Come check us out.

Squirrel Proofing Bird Feeders - Techniques to Birdproof Feeders

There are really 2 basic approaches to keeping squirrels out of your bird feeder. The first is to simply try to block them from getting to the feeder. There are two common types of feeders that do that.

Baffled Bird Feeder - By simply restricting access to the the food in the feeder, you frustrate them and they move off. The advantage to using a baffle is that it more or less separates the squirrel proof barrier from the feeder itself, so that the bird have free access to the bird seed, and any size bird can still use the feeder. This is often the more aesthetic approach. This is often done by pole mounting the feeder, and putting the baffle on the pole. Other types use a hanging arrangement and the baffle forms a roof over the feeder.

The disadvantage of this approach is that squirrels can leap large distances, and are incredibly agile climbers, so that they will often find a way to land on the actual feeder and bypass the baffling. With the top mounted feeder you may also find a squirrel smart enough to climb down and cause the feeder to swing, and while they may not gain access to the feeder itself they can cause the bird food to spill to the ground, where they can get all the food they want.

Caged Bird Feeders - Another very common solution is to use a caged feeder. These are easy to spot, the construction includes some type of cage around the actual feeder area. It's a fairly open mesh, and in fact a tube style caged feeder looks similar to an electronic bug zapper with the open mesh surrounding the tube.

Caged feeders are better at keeping the squirrels out of the feeder, but they can still get to it and scare off the birds that are trying to use the feeder. This is often the case when you are trying to attract smaller birds.

The second approach to getting rid of squirrels in your bird feeder is to move them out. The much more effective types of squirrel proof feeders are those that cause the squirrel to fall off or be thrown from the feeder. There are two types of those feeders as well, weight activated feeders and the battery powered or electronic motorized feeders. While this won't harm the squirrels they are fun to watch in action.

Older Dogs Can Suffer From Arthritis By John Wollitz

Older dogs are like newborn babies. When these lovely creatures are feeling pain, they cannot tell anyone. The poor old dog gets slower and less active on a daily basis. Though they can not tell anyone, sometimes you can visibly see that they are in pain. Often this pain is the result of arthritis. Arthritis is quite common in older dogs, and it appears more frequently in larger dogs than it does in smaller ones. The larger dogs also have a more difficult time moving around when affected by arthritis than the smaller ones do.

Like arthritis in people, arthritis in dogs can appear in different forms with differing amounts of pain and symptoms. Dog arthritis, like the disease in people, is often caused by the inflammation of the joints. Dogs get the disease, and then it continues to get worse over the course of time. The joints that were once cushioned have lost this comfort, and the dog begins to have trouble getting around. The nerve endings are affected, and this adds to the pain of the aging animal. The dog will just not be the same frisky dog that it used to be.

What The Dog Owner Can Do To Help

The pain in the dog's joints is caused by the deterioration, and this impedes the dog from getting around. The owner will notice that the dog begins sleeping more and becomes less active. The dog that went running up the stairs before will no longer want to do this. The old dog with arthritis will also have trouble jumping into the car. The owner will probably find themselves doing a lot more for the dog than they had to previously. A good vet will be able to determine the problem, and then make suggestions for the care of the dog.

There is help for canine arthritis from a vet and the pharmacy. There are medications including some that will start to make the dog feel better right away. These will help the way the dog feels, but they will not necessarily eliminate the disease. Some of the drugs for a dog with arthritis are expensive, and some may cause unwanted side effects. For this reason, all natural herbal and homeopathic remedies have become quite popular. Each dog lover should work carefully with their vet to make the dog as comfortable as possible. The vet will be able to give plenty of advice to help the dog. Each owner should remember that dogs do not live as long as people so dogs are much older than their years.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140896&ca=Pets

The Importance Of Appropriate Cat Food By Michelle Bery

Part of the responsibility of pet ownership is the care and feeding of our animal friends. For cat owners, appropriate feline care can greatly increase the health of our cats and extend their lives significantly. Subsequently, choosing the appropriate cat food – based on breed and size - is of the utmost importance in taking responsible care of our cats.

Cat food comes in a dizzying array of choices; as we browse the shelves, we hardly know where to start. The most important thing to remember when choosing a cat food is that each particular brand is specifically designed for a particular stage in a cat’s life. So a food that is appropriate for a kitten is not appropriate for an older cat. Read the packaging to determine what cat food is meant for your specific age of cat.

That being said, there are still quite a lot of ingredients and nutritional contradictions when it comes to cat food. A reputable veterinarian will be able to tell you what is essential to the health and longevity of your cat. It is important that you follow these guidelines when making a selection of cat food based on the nutrients it offers.

To narrow it down even further, when it comes to choosing between brands, look for those that carry an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) seal of approval. This ensures that this particular brand of cat food meets with the nutritional guidelines as set forth by the AAFCO.

Other things to take into consideration when it comes to cat food are the size and health of your cat. Stay within the feed guidelines – as recommended by your veterinarian – for your cat’s size. And if your cat has any existing health conditions you must be sure to take this into consideration when asking your veterinarian about appropriate cat food.

Cat food can be found anywhere from your grocery store to your local large retail outlet or pet supply store. The pet stores tend to carry a larger selection and offer a more competitive price so if you have one close by it is worth checking out.

Feeding your cat the most appropriate cat food for them is an essential part of an overall program for good health and long life.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139925&ca=Pets

Should You Be Concerned About The Pet Food Recall? By Aaron Wilmont

Many dog and cat owners are worried that the food they have been feeding their pet may not be as safe, much less as nutritionally balanced, as they were led to believe.

This concern is perfectly understandable, particularly since tainted dog and cat food has been linked to the deaths of at least 23 animals.

After all, the current recall has been quite widespread, with over fifty dog brands and more than forty cat brands recalled at this time, including some of the largest brand names out there such as Iams, Best Choice and Eukanuba. In a March 21, 2007 Newsweek article by journalist Matthew Philips entitled 'Is pet food properly regulated?' the report states:' .....authorities still cannot explain exactly what went wrong. Some critics and animal lovers are honing in on what they see as lax regulation of the fifteen billion dollar pet-food industry in the United States.' It should be noted that this recall has not only impacted the U.S. Canada and mexico as well.

'There is almost a void there,' states Bob Vetere, president of the APPMA, or the American Pet Product Manufacturers Association. 'There is no real pet-food department of any federal agency.' This news is very troubling, but it comes as no surprise to some. I have been hearing about the rendering plants for a while now, and it is clear to me that where there is smoke there is usually fire.

Sadly, the standard was low from the start.

The first dog food sold was produced in 1860. A salesman named James Pratt was visiting Great Britain from America and saw dogs surviving off of mere left-over biscuits from ships. So he decided to prepare a dog biscuit product consisting of wheat meal and meat, and begin selling them entirely to English rural gentlemen who owned sporting dogs. So at one time dogs subsisted of of scraps, meaning the quality of the produced food never had to be particularly high.

The current problem has been linked to rat poison by some sources, but there are many, many other problems with mainstream brands as well.

For example, artificial coloring is used extensively despite the fact that they are totally unnecessary and have been linked to medical issues. It is believed by some in the medical field that if an ingredient is foreign to the body the body reacts to it and can cause numerous health problems.

Pets are not concerned about color too much.

In addition, by-products are a way for dog food or cat food companies to keep their costs down and therefore profits up. Instead of using whole meats, they simply use by-products instead. These are simply the least desirable parts.

And there are a number of other items which the labels do not always reveal. For instance, condemned parts of animals which are not fit for human consumption are often rerouted into commercial treats. These parts may be the parts of animals who are dead, dying, decayed or actually diseased. Furthermore, specific meats & other ingredients can't be sold for use by people, because it is damaged or has some other kind of defect. The dimensions of the problem may be so sizeable that we might not know the reasons for this tragedy for some time. According to a recent MSNBC article, 'Some of the 60 million cans and pouches of food have been blamed for kidney failure in scores of animals and killed over 16 pets. Neither the manufacturer nor the authorities have been able to determine why the pets died'.

The article mentioned that articles are already being filed by consumers, which calls into question the future of some of these pet food firms.

Should you stick with a mainstream brand or go to a premium grade food? Considering that many of the mainstream brands are owned by the same parent company.

I would be inclined to go with the latter. Who knows what brand will be recalled next.

The best brand I an aware of is Life's Abundance but there are several top notch premium pet foods out there to choose from. Look for whole food ingredients and freshness above all else. The ones that mention they are human grade are also usually a safe bet in my experience.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140236&ca=Pets

Teaching Your Puppy Bite Inhibition By Kevin Lynch

Bite Inhibition is one of the most important things your puppy must learn to become a well-trained, respectable dog. Bite inhibition is a learned response in which your dog will consciously inhibit the full force of his biting ability. Without learning bite inhibition a dog can severely injure or even possibly kill another dog or even a child.

Puppies learn bite inhibition during the socialization of nursing and playing. If a puppy bites while nursing the mother dog will get up and walk away. If the puppy bites too hard while playing with his littermates, the bitten puppy will yelp and stop playing with the biting puppy. This teaches the puppy that all playing must stop if he bites too hard.

A puppy should learn bite inhibition by the time he is four and a half months of age. Since many puppies are taken from their mothers and other littermates before this time, it becomes necessary for the new owners to take over the role of teaching bite inhibition.

When you are teaching your puppy bite inhibition treat him as his mother and his littermates would. When he bites too hard, get up and walk away, make sure he knows that when he bites too hard all play must stop.

Some ideas you can use to teach bite inhibition are

Sit down and start playing with your puppy. Bring his attention to your hands. When your puppy starts to bite your hands too hard say “Ow” firmly and stop playing and stop all interaction. Do not look at your puppy but avert your eyes to the side away from your pup. He needs to know that you are serious about stopping the play.

Make sure that your response is short and firm. If you whine or wince your puppy may think that you are still playing and you have defeated your purpose.

After some time has passed, face your pup again and offer your hand if he tries to bite again, repeat the process.

If your puppy is just nipping at you or your clothes you can offer a toy to chew on. If he is not interested in the toy but keeps on nipping, you should withdraw all attention. You can even walk away.

As you practice this, your puppy should be using less and less pressure as he is playing with you. Your first goal should be to inhibit the force of his bite and then to reduce the frequency of his bite. If he is never allowed to use even a light bite, when faced with a situation of stress he will probably react with a overly strong bite and could hurt someone unintentionally.

Bite Inhibition is an important part of training and socializing your dog. It is easier to teach a puppy bite inhibition but even older dogs can learn with some patience and good training.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141060&ca=Pets

Blue And Gold Macaw Of The Rainforest By Anna Hart

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is found mainly in tropical South America. Bolivia, Brazil, Ecuador, northern Paraguay, and eastern Peru all offer the kind of home the macaw parrot needs. The blue and gold macaw's natural habitat includes open marshlands and woodlands, but the rainforest, with its large trees is a favored habitat.

Blue and Gold Macaw Population Density

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is an endangered species. Because of hunting, trapping for the pet trade, and destruction of their habitat, blue and gold macaws are gradually disappearing from the rainforest, as well as other areas.

Habitat destruction appears to be the greatest danger to blue and gold macaw population density. Logging, in particular, removes the largest trees – the ones macaws favor for nesting. Without suitable nesting sites, the blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is doomed to extinction.

Perhaps the second greatest danger to the blue and gold macaw is the pet trade. Traders climb trees to remove chicks from their nests. If climbing is too difficult, trees are felled, and chicks who survive the fall are taken. Few survive to maturity, rapidly decimating their numbers.

Blue and gold macaws are usually seen in pairs or family groups. At times, they may be seen in flocks of a dozen or so. Sadly, such sightings are becoming increasingly uncommon. The blue and gold macaw population density in the wild is already much lower than the numbers in captivity. Some put the total of those in the rainforest at no more than 200 pairs.

Coloring

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest is almost entirely bright aqua blue and golden yellow. The wings are tipped with a bright true blue. Since both male and female look identical, breeders must use a blood test or DNA test to determine gender. The blue and gold macaw has a creamy white face, with distinctive black feather lines and green forehead.

Size

A full-grown blue and gold macaw is one of the largest parrots in the world.

* Length – Male: 34-36 inches
* Length – Female: 32-34 inches
* Weight – Male: 2-2 3/4 pounds
* Weight – Female: slightly smaller
* Wingspan – Male: 41-45 inches
* Wingspan – Female: slightly smaller

Temperament

Of all the parrots of the world, the blue and gold macaw is said to have one of the mildest, most easy-going temperaments. Unlike some parrot species, the blue and gold macaw is willing to interact with various family members rather than being a one-person bird. It will, however, prefer one above the others.

Extremely intelligent, a blue and gold macaw can be taught both to talk and to do tricks. It mimics human words loudly and clearly. It is a very expressive bird, showing what it wants by cocking its head, flashing its eyes, and 'talking' to you. It may also fluff its feathers, bow, bob its head, and prance around.

A blue and gold macaw can become very tame and playful if hand-raised. They will always require a lot of attention, though. If they become bored, they can be very destructive.

Toys

Give a blue and gold macaw wood to chew, and he will forget about chewing things that are off-bounds. This parrot keeps its beak in good condition by chewing wood. It also relieves pent up energy by chewing wood. As a result, it chews very aggressively.

A variety of stimulating chew toys will keep it from becoming bored.

Food

The blue and gold macaw of the rainforest usually eats bark and leaves, fruits, nuts, seeds, and vegetables, but it will also eat small animals in the wild. It visits clay licks to get mineral supplements into its diet, and to detoxify seeds.

In captivity, a blue and gold macaw will eat fresh pellets or seeds. It will need fresh fruits and vegetables daily, with old ones discarded after 24 hours. It will need a ready supply of fresh, clean, chlorine-free water, too.
The blue and gold macaw appreciates quality and variety in its food, and may let you know if it is not happy about what it receives.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139287&ca=Pets

Understanding Black Labrador Puppies By Anna Hart

When I write of a 'well-rounded' black Labrador puppy, you may immediately picture a round, roly-poly black puppy. That is not what we normally mean by the term, of course.

Understanding black Labrador puppies begins by grasping the fact that a well-rounded black Labrador puppy is one that has learned to get along with other dogs and with family members (including other pets). It is a puppy that has bonded with his 'pack' and fits in well. It has been socialized – but how do you socialize a black Labrador puppy?

Socializing the Black Labrador Puppy

All dogs are social creatures, but few are as social as a black Labrador puppy. A black Labrador puppy loves attention, and wants to get it from everyone and everything. A black Labrador puppy does not want to share, however, and must learn that every member of the 'pack' shares. He must learn how to respond to both human and animal members of his new pack.

Understanding black Labrador puppies involves 7 simple steps that help puppies become well-rounded.

1. Puppy Pats

Your black Labrador puppy needs to be patted, touched, and caressed. Most people do this instinctively from the time they get the puppy. Children, especially, touch the puppy in every possible place they can. The more children there are, the more puppy pats your black Labrador puppy will receive. Even if yours is a gun dog, and children are not playing with it, it still needs puppy pats. Let it feel your hand on its ears, its nose, and its paw pads. Get your black Labrador puppy accustomed to being touched and patted. It will help him fit into his new life. While you're at it, teach children how to treat the puppy.

2. Puppy Playtime

It is important that you and your black Labrador puppy have several playtimes each day. If possible, give him at least one in the morning and one in the evening, as this will establish a pattern for future exercise times. Teach your black Labrador puppy that you are his friend. Play fetch. Take a toy away, teaching the importance of sharing. Do not let him take it back in an aggressive manner. Hide a toy and let him hunt it.

3. Puppy Rolling Game

Every black Labrador puppy needs to be involved in frequent bouts of the puppy rolling game. This game shows the puppy that his position in your pack is one of submission. When playing with your black Labrador puppy, roll him on his side now and then. Hold him there as you silently count to 10. When you reach 10, remove your hand and let the puppy get up. If he struggles while you're holding him, do not let go. You must not let your black Labrador puppy overpower you, or he will believe he is the pack's dominant member.

4. Share-a-Puppy

A big part of understanding black Labrador puppies is recognizing that they need a wide circle of acquaintances. When you get your pup, note his age in a notebook. Subtract it from 24 weeks. If your puppy is 8 weeks old, you would subtract 24 - 8 = 16. In those weeks (whatever number you wrote), you need to share your puppy with at least 100 new people. If you wrote 16 weeks, set a goal of having your puppy meet 6-7 new people each week. Keep track so you know it is happening. Simply have strangers hold your black Labrador puppy, and touch it. Hand it back and forth carefully so it does not fall.

5. Share-a-Meal

A black Labrador puppy can quickly learn to be protective of his food dish. If left to natural instincts, he may become hostile when others come near his bowl. To avoid this, share a meal by sitting or standing close to the bowl when the pup is eating. Have other family members do the same. Teach your black Labrador puppy that his food is safe even when someone is very near.

6. Puppy Home School

From the time you get your black Labrador puppy, teach him every day. He is old enough to learn basic commands such as come; down; drop it; leave it; and sit. Avoid yelling at the puppy or punishing it. There are good Labrador training courses available on the Internet. Order one and use it faithfully.

7. Puppy Support Group

Please understand that a black Labrador puppy needs the constant support of everyone in his home. Life is full of exciting things, as well as frightening things. When a garbage truck comes banging down the street, he will tuck his little tail between his legs and run for cover. What do you do. You – and everyone else present – act as though nothing happened. Your black Labrador puppy will notice that he is the only one running. He will soon decide that, if no one else is afraid, the sound of garbage trucks is not important.

Understanding black Labrador puppies is an ongoing process, but these 7 steps will give you a good start.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139562&ca=Pets

Weddings: Decisions, Decisions By Eric Hartwell

Once you begin planning a wedding, you'll quickly encounter lots of options and choices for which you need to make decisions. These range from flower arrangements to destinations. Even then there are more choices!

For example popular wedding destinations include Cancun, Hawaii, Australia, the Bahamas, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, Greece, Italy, France, Fiji, the Maldives, Thailand, Bali, Bora Bora, and anywhere in the Caribbean. How do you make the choice?

You'll need to consider the music played during the ceremony. What will you choose and why? The music played during the ceremony includes prelude, processional, ceremony, recessional, and postlude music. The newlywed's entrance is grand and spectacular so it needs to have music that complements the entrance; your friends and family will be watching so choose the right music for this once-in-a-lifetime occasion. Also, consider the reception music and who will play it.

The type of wedding cake is a big, delicious decision. Size, shape, color, quality, style, etc. are all facets to consider carefully. Should it be round, square, themed, or heart-shaped. Do you want it made or flavored with the best chocolate, carrot, lemon, rum, vanilla, or other exotic taste? How many tiers do you want? What about the filling? Remember, you'll be saving the top tier for the first anniversary of your wedding. Slice it off before the cake is cut - neatly, and wrap it in several layers; next, store it in the freezer until your first anniversary arrives. A local bakery can deliver the best quality. Don't necessarily rely on a hotel because they can leave you wanting on quality.

Even then there are even more choices!

For example, there is the wedding videographer or, at least, a freelance photographer. Today's wedding videos are much different than former ones. They can be edited, produced, and have music, sound effects, slow motion, and other 'special effects' put in for fun. Smaller, more light-sensitive cameras are available to today's videographers. This means less anxiety and cumbersome cables and cords. You can get a documentary-style video of the day just how it happened, or you can make it more cinematic. Furthermore, the cinematic approach to the wedding can be reflected in a wedding with a lot of glam, posed shots, and royal fashion.

Book the videographer several months in advance, usually about 9 months minimum. Don't pick the first videographer you come across. Instead, look through his past work for samples. A good portfolio of videos speaks volumes about what you'll see. Look at the brightness, quality of sound, the picture, and other indicators. A good videographer should have some samples for you to look through. Always look through bridal publications and do a lot of interviewing yourself beforehand.

But what about the flowers? Pink, purple, orange, red, white, yellow, or any of numerous beauteous shades will be used for the bride's bouquet, the bridesmaids' hairpieces, the flower girl's hairpiece, the bride's going away corsage, the tables, e.g., head, guest, buffet, punch, the groom's boutonniere, the maid of honor's hairpiece, the alter candelabra, and the aisle pews - to name but some.

If all else fails - or if you just want a little extra help - contact a certified wedding planner or wedding consultant.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140764&ca=Pets

Help Your Dog Quickly Learn Obedience Training By Niall Roche

One of the most commonly held beliefs about dogs is that they are quite literally born to obey their respective masters - be they male or female. That's why we all collectively consider dogs to be mans best friend. Obedience is not necessarily something that comes naturally to dogs and to be honest often has to be trained into them with compassion and patience. Your dog needs to learn how to obey commands so they know how to behave around your home, people and of course other dogs and animals.

Obedience training in dogs is to allow you to 'control' the dog. Remember dogs think and act with a pack instinct to a certain extent and this type of training is vital so that the dog knows who the master is in your relationship. In effect you'll become the Alpha male of this particular small 'pack'.
The methods used to achieve this final goal vary from one trainer to the next but the ultimate goal is the same - the dog has to obey their master; it's to the benefit of all involved.

So what actually makes a dog obey their master? They (dogs) don't think the same way as humans do and don't understand our spoken language as such. So what are the core techniques to making a dog obey you? It's quite simple really... you need to train your dog in a consistent and compassionate manner and they'll respond. And you thought it was going to be rocket science eh?

Having a consistent approach in your training is critical. Dogs don't think logically as humans do. You need to be consistent in showing your dog what behaviors you appreciate and those that you don't. This way it can become more 'instinctual' for the dog and they'll quite happily obey you and your dog/owner relationship can truly blossom.

Compassion is equally important. Even the smartest dog will take time to learn new commands from you. If your canine buddy doesn't instantly respond to a new commmand then don't scold, slap or shout at him or her. Your dog needs to trust you for your training to be truly effective and let's face facts nobody likes getting yelled at - dogs are the same in this regard.

Your dog is willing to obey you but he's going to take time to learn the ropes. Be patient, compassionate and consistent in your approach and you're already 50% of the way to success.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140077&ca=Pets

Take Care Of Your Dog By Mark Clayson

Dogs are man’s (or woman’s) best friend so treat them as such! Be a good friend to your dog, give it lots of tender loving care and you will have a companion for life!

Your dog has instinctive compulsions to dig, herd, retrieve, chase and chew. You, as the owner, are responsible for teaching your dog when these behaviors are appropriate. Keeping your dog on a balanced exercise program will stimulate its mind, keep it healthy and escape boredom. Destructive dog behaviors can be lessened or eliminated by making sure your dog gets enough exercise with supervised play. Exercise also burns calories that will keep your dog looking trim and slim! Exercises vary with breed type, size, sex, age and health. If you are lazy, your dog will be lazy and become destructive. Walking your dog a few times a day around the block and a short stint of running around the back yard is not enough. The owner must get creative and play games such as fetch, Frisbee, free running (look for dog friendly parks) and even swimming.

You want your dog to look good and smell clean. Brushing your dog on a daily basis, giving it frequent baths and checking for fleas and ticks are all good ways to have a hygienic dog.

If you have a small dog or a lap dog, you can carry them with you in a small shoulder bag for quick and easy transportation. Your dog is able to accompany you wherever you go and will attract lots of attention for being so cute. Place your hand under the dog’s ches and use your other hand or forearm to support its hind legs and bottom. Never pick up your dog by its front legs, tail or scruff of the neck. If you have a large dog, mostly it will be on a leash when you transport it but if you need to pick it up, lift your dog from underneath and support the chest and rear with your arms.

Your dog will want a cozy, warm and quiet resting place to call his own. Make sure there are no drafts and keep it off the floor. Using a training crate is a great idea and lining the crate with a blanket, towel or pillow will make it soft and your dog will enjoy sleeping inside. You can also buy a dog bed or create one out of a wooden box. Be certain to wash the bedding often to keep the doghouse clean. If your dog has access to the outdoors, your backyard or garden, make sure that there is sufficient shade to protect it from the hot summer sun and provide plenty of cool water to prevent overheating. Dogs aren’t big fans of cold and rainy weather and it is imperative your dog has warm and dry shelter in these conditions.

Your state or local community will have regulations on how to license and identify your dog. Your dog should wear a collar with its name and your phone number on it in case it should get lost. Microchipping your dog is a good option and not very expensive. This procedure is relatively harmless and a microchip the size of a grain of rice will be implanted under your dog’s skin. This microchip will contain all the information needed to help return your dog safely to you should it become lost.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140758&ca=Pets

Keep Your Dog In Good Health By Eric Hartwell

Taking your dog to the vet can be a harrowing experience for you and your dog. However, it is necessary to ensure your dog of a healthy, happy and long life. Your dog should see the vet once a year for annual checkups, shots and a blood test for heartworm. Always take your dog to the doctor immediately if it is sick or injured.

Puppies will need to be vaccinated with a “5 in 1” combination vaccine at 2, 3 and 4 months old, followed by annual shots. This vaccine inoculates your pup from hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, parainfluenza and distemper. Larger dogs such as Doberman Pinschers, American Staffordshire terriers/pit bulls and Rottweilers will need the combination vaccine up until five months of age. An unvaccinated dog that is older than four or five months old will be required to have a series of two vaccinations administered two to three weeks apart. After these shots, be careful that your puppy does not walk outside or sit or walk on the floor of an animal hospital until a few days after the last vaccination is completed, thus avoiding infection. Some states require a rabies vaccination for your puppy which should be given annually for two years and followed up by boosters every three years. If your animal becomes sick and was not properly vaccinated, be sure to administer the vaccine once the animal has fully recovered.

Heartworm is a common and deadly parasite. It lives in the dog’s heart and is transmitted by mosquitoes. Every spring, it is a good idea to get your dog tested for heartworm. This test will determine whether or not your dog was infected the year before. During mosquito season, you can give your dog a once-a-month pill to protect it. If you travel out of your area and weather to a tropical or warm place where there will be mosquitoes, your will want to give your dog or puppy preventative heartworm medication for the duration of the trip. If you live in a warm climate all year long, it is advisable to constantly monitor and administer heartworm medication.

Roundworms and hookworms are also on the roster of disabling doggie diseases. Dogs can be exposed to these infections through microscopic eggs in another dog’s infected feces It is common for puppies to contract hookworms or roundworms and this can be treated by your trusted veterinarian.

Whenever you kiss or get licked by your dog and you inhale the “dog breath” this may not just be a case of gingivitis. Your dog’s bad breath is an indication to you that your dog may have a serious liver or intestinal disease, diabetes, kidney disease or just needs to go to the dentist. A regular dental check-up and cleaning will determine if your dog’s mouth has bacteria and plaque which would require professional treatment. You can maintain your dog’s good dental health by brushing the teeth on a regular basis and feeding it dental treats to chew on. With a child’s soft toothbrush, the owner can clean the canine’s teeth with dog toothpaste or baking soda and water paste weekly. If your dog’s bad breath is accompanied by other symptoms of ill health such as depression, loss of appetite or vomiting, take your dog to the vet to get a full check-up.

Always check your dog for fleas and ticks and never feed your dog medication that has not been prescribed!

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140760&ca=Pets

Cat Health By Eric Hartwell

Cat owners should make sure to visit the veterinarian at least once a year for an annual examination and shots. If a cat becomes sick or injured, it is advisable to visit the veterinarian or animal hospital immediately. Your kitten will need a series of vaccines when it is very young. This series of shots is commonly referred to as a “3 in 1”. When your kitten is 2,3 and 4 months of age it will receive a combination vaccine that protects your cat from panleukopenia (also referred to as feline distemper), calicivirus and rhinotracheitis. If your cat has not been vaccinated and is four months or older, it will be necessary to administer a series of two vaccinations 2 to 3 weeks apart, followed up with annual vaccinations.

There are two immune system viruses (retroviruses) that can infect your cat or kitten; Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV). There is a vaccination available for feline leukemia but not FIV. It is possible that your cat can be infected and show no symptoms for months or years with either of these deadly viruses and the owner should make sure their cats are tested when visiting the veterinarian. Its mother can spread these viruses to a kitten at birth or through a bite of another infected cat. Outdoor and stray cats often carry these infections but neither is transmissible to humans. To ensure that your cat does not become infected with these viruses, it is advisable to keep them indoors. If you do allow your cat to be an outdoor cat, you must vaccinate the animal against the feline leukemia virus. No vaccine is 100% effective but it is an excellent preventative measure to safeguard your cat from ill health.

Aside from FeLV and FIV, there are some other ills that can befall your cuddly companion. Tiny parasites in the form of ear mites are a common problem that is easily transmitted between cats. You may notice your cat scratching its ears or shaking its head, which are two symptoms of ear mites. Take your cat to the vet if this occurs, he or she will clean the ears of your feline friend and administer proper medication. Worms are another problematic medical condition to look out for when caring for your cat or kitten.

Tapeworms and roundworms are common parasites that can infect your companion. Your vet can properly diagnose this nasty bug and prescribe medication to treat your cat. Fleas can transmit tapeworms as well as irritate your cat’s skin. Check your cat weekly for fleas and ticks. Fleas are ubiquitous and will be all over your house if found on your cat and flea bombing your living space will be in order in addition to cat-safe flea shampoo or powder. Be sure to treat all domestic animals if you find one flea. Your vet can advise the best treatment program. Male and female cats can develop feline urological syndrome (FUS), which is an infection of the lower urinary tract. As in humans, if your cat is repeatedly visiting the litter box, you see blood in the urine or your cat is making loud cries or straining while urinating you must take your cat to the vet for medication. FUS is more common in male cats and this infection can be fatal if your cat does not receive rapid treatment.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139916&ca=Pets

Is The Hexagon Fish Tank Fish Friendly? By Sharon Price

In this day and age fish tanks come in all shapes and sizes and you can get them made from a number of different materials. When purchasing a fish tank you need to decide on a number of factors. How do you want your aquarium to look? How big is your home? What kinds of fish do you want to keep etc. When you decide to buy a fish tank for yourself, you start with an idea of how your aquarium should look. Most people think an aquarium should be oblong while others prefer something a bit different. These unusual shaped aquariums such as the hexagon fish tank look amazing in your home but they are not designed for fish.

The Hexagon Fish Tank Actually Harms the Fish And Is Just a Decorative Piece

Unfortunately for the fish the hexagon fish tank is not kind to fish as it makes them feel disoriented as they need to swim round and round and not backwards and forwards as in an oblong tank. Humans are always trying to find things that look unusual and unique to impress our friends and neighbors and the hexagon fish tank certainly does this. It looks stunning and is a very decorative piece of furniture. People love the hexagon fish tank because it looks different to anything else. While the hexagon fish tank is not kind to the fish the shape is attractive and at the same it could be placed in many different spots in your home.

The space in a hexagon fish tank allows for swimming is so much less than a rectangular tank of similar size. The fish do not feel happy about being restricted in a hexagon fish tank because the shape does now allow them the freedom they want. The kindest thing you could do would be to buy mechanical fish and have an array of colorful plants and ornaments. This way your hexagon fish tank would still look stunning and you would not be making any fish dizzy.

One other alternative would be to have very small fish. These small fish would have more room to swim around compared to bigger fish who would just become ill. The hexagon fish tank would allow the very small fish a bit more freedom; however for big fish the hexagon fish tank will make them ill. They would be far happier in a large oblong tank.

Another factor to consider is the one of children. If you have children you will need to decide if you should have your hexagon fish tank made from glass or metal. Where children are concerned acrylic aquariums are far better as they are safer and they keep the water temperature stable for longer periods of time thus requiring less looking after. Whether or not you choose an oblong or hexagon fish tank you need to be careful as not to scratch it as acrylic marks easier than glass. If you are still undecided whether or not to have a normal or hexagon shaped fish tank I think the first question you should ask yourself is that of which fish would I like in my tank? If you do not mind a few small fish or mechanical ones then buy a hexagon fish tank. However if you feel that you want something more then I feel a standard oblong tank would be best.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139837&ca=Pets

Pet Air Travel: Flying With Your Pet To Hawaii? By Darlene Berkel

First of all, let me assure you that there are ways to fly with your pets cross country, and even out-of-country, without any damage. You can relax, well, at least a bit anyway. From the research we have done about pet travel and specifically about flying with pets, it seems that most pets are completely safe and unharmed while traveling by airplane.

Still not convinced? Then you should take a look at two great pet air travel websites: Petflight and PetAir. Pet flight is a great site about pet-friendly flights and safe shipping of your pets. It was inspired by a special dog named Brent. Brent and his “pet Dad” discuss how they moved to Hawaii from the USA and they provide invaluable air travel and flight information for flying with pets.

Be sure to read the Pet Travel Reports . Petflight provides monthly reports on the loss, injury, and death of pets during air travel. In addition, you will find great pet travel tips and hard-to-find airline information. We highly recommend Brent’s website as a resource when planning to fly with your pets.

Pet Air is another great resource you could tap into. Pet Air has a 28 –year reputation for transporting animals safely. They deal with both wild as well as domesticated animals. We hope studying the information on these 2 websites and any others you may come across, will help to convince you that it should be perfectly safe to fly with pets IF you arm yourself with all the relevant information and use the right channels.

And if you really don’t like the idea of the cargo hold for your “babies” then hiring a private jet might be the way to go!

Knowing all the rules of pet travel can be confusing since not all airlines allow pets to fly in the cabin. Do your research and contact the airlines directly for all relevant pet air travel information, since pet travel policies vary from airline to airline, and the different policies can be confusing.

Lots of pet travel information is available on the internet, so you can easily acquaint yourself with the rules of pet friendly travel. There are some basic rules that both you and the airlines must follow such as:

-your pet must be at least 8 weeks old and under 100 pounds

-your pet will not be allowed to be outside of its pet carrier

-non traditional pets are not allowed ( sorry, you'll have to leave your pet snake with his favorite sitter)

-you will need a health certificate from a vet that is no more than 10 days old if your animal will travel in the cargo hold.

These are just a few pet travel rules to keep in mind, but there are many more pet travel tips and resources to help make your pet travel experiences pleasurable for you, the airlines, and above all, for your beloved pet.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140237&ca=Pets

Tips When Buying Exotic Pets By George Chao

Are the kind of person who would enjoy taking care of an exotic animal for a pet instead of a dog, cat, rabbit or any of the regular variety pets? Caring for an exotic pet is serious business, but it can also be a fun and challenging endeavor.

Exotic pets are animals that are not commonly considered pets by many. They are not your regular, every day pets. Unless your pet dog or cat belongs to a very rare species, it's not an exotic pet. Exotic pets are also referred to as non-traditional pets because they are not the kind of pets that most pet owners would have. Some of the more popular exotic pets include exotic cats, frogs, hamsters, hedgehogs, lizards, monkeys (illegal in some countries), parrots, snakes, spiders, turkeys and turtles.

Before acquiring an exotic pet, you need to be clear as to why you truly want to own one. Are you just getting an exotic pet so you can be 'cool' and show off to friends and family? If you are, it is best to forget getting one. Caring for an exotic pet demands is a big responsible, one you should never take lightly. Because you will be caring for a non-traditional pet, your exotic pet will require special accommodations, attention and food.

However, if you truly want to own an exotic pet not for the cool factor having one but for a real desire to care for one then the next thing you should do is research on the kind of exotic pet you want to have. Also, make sure that the exotic pet you are going to get is legally allowed in the area you are living in.

Below are a few more things you should keep in mind when buying an exotic pet.

* Consider how big the exotic pet you want will grow into as adult. Don't just go for an exotic pet because you think it's cute when it's still a baby. Think about its size when it becomes an adult. Remember that the larger the pet, the bigger the space it will require and the harder it may be to handle.

* Do you want an exotic pet that likes people and frequently handled? Perhaps you want an exotic pet that does not mind if it is not handled regularly.

* What kind of food will your exotic pet need? Exotic pets usually need specialized food. You need to know if you will be able to get food for your exotic food from a regular supplier. Also, consider how food would be prepared as some exotic pets require freshly prepared food every day. Factor this in your decision since you are the one who will be feeding your exotic pet.

* What kind of housing will your exotic pet need? Will a small cage do or will you need to build something to hold your exotic pet?

* Consider the cost of keeping your exotic pet alive. Exotic pets are more expensive to care for than ordinary pets. You will have to find out how much food, housing, supplies and veterinary care your exotic pet will require.

* What are your plans for the long term? Do you see yourself moving to a new place or being away for a long time? How will you take care of your exotic pet during those times when you are away?

* Do you have children living with you? Make sure that the exotic pet will be safe around kids and vice versa.

* If you have other pets in your home, make sure that the exotic pet you get is compatible with them.

* Make sure that there is available veterinary care nearby for your exotic pet.

* There are exotic pets that live a long time and may even outlive you so consider this when choosing an exotic pet.

* Consider an exotic pet's destructive tendencies. Will you be able to train your exotic pet? How much training will be required to curb your exotic pet's destructive tendencies?

* Keep in mind that there are animals that carry disease that can be transmitted to humans so take care when choosing an exotic pet.

* Avoid getting an exotic pet that can pose potential danger to your or other people's life. There are exotic pets that are aggressive and downright dangerous.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140499&ca=Pets

Common Pet Diseases And What You Can Do By Vaughn Balchunas

While disease and illness is expected and even forgiven in fellow humans, we often try to close our eyes to the possibility of our pets getting sick. And if they ever fall sick, we conveniently forget that a little timely care and treatment would have saved us the problem in the first place. First of all, let's do away with the myth that we can catch all kinds of diseases from a pet. While some diseases are communicable, most others are infectious only among pets.

Basics of cat diseases:

You can pick up fleas or ticks from a pet that is not kept clean. But diseases like cancer, diabetes and cystitis are non-communicable. Even diseases that come too close for comfort like Feline Leukemia and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus can affect cats and ONLY cats! Also, your cat's runny nose, cold and sneezing will not get passed to you, or vice versa.

Cats have a reputation of being cleaner than most other pets. So, it's easy to see why people tend to overlook symptoms and signs till matters get worse. Some of the most common diseases that cats ail from include:

Upper respiratory diseases: We know this as the common cold and cats are subject to different kinds of 'cold' viruses, just like humans. Signs include severely inflamed eyes, high fever, sneezing, snotty noses, excessive tearing, depression and difficulty in breathing and swallowing. Secondary infections like pneumonia may set in if the cat's resistance is lowered and the disease is not treated soon.

Parasitical infections: Cats can get infected with internal and external parasites. External parasites include ticks, fleas, mites, and lice. These parasites can cause pesky itching problems which may lead to secondary infections and skin rashes. Coats, ears and eyes have to be kept clean and infected cats will have to be treated with chemicals or medicine. Among the most common internal parasites, roundworms and tapeworms cause the most harm. Diagnosis can be made by inspecting the feces. Cats have to be de-wormed periodically to keep such parasites away.

Some other common problems seen in cats are Feline Urological Syndrome (infecting the urinary system), Abscesses (caused due to trauma to the skin) and ringworm. Ringworm is contagious and can pass on to humans.

Basics of dog diseases:

Just because you are feeding him well and exercising him regularly, don't think that your dog is immune to diseases. Dogs are vulnerable to a number of common diseases. Some varieties of dogs also carry strains of inherited disorders that will surface as they grow older. While there is nothing much you can do about inherited diseases, you can help effect speedy recovery in other cases. As always, early detection is the key to good health. Some of the common diseases in dogs are:

Diarrhea: This is more often seen in pups than adult dogs and may be triggered by stress, a sudden change in food or a viral or bacterial attack. Diarrhea is deadly because it can lead to death due to dehydration. Older dogs may suffer from bloat and occurrence increases with age.

Upper respiratory infections: Discharge from the eyes/nose, coughing or sneezing is indicative of respiratory diseases. Airborne viruses and bacteria transfer the disease which is highly contagious between dogs. “Kennel Cough' is a respiratory disorder that can be prevented through vaccinations.

Other common ailments like rabies, distemper and parvovirus can be prevented through timely vaccinations and booster doses. Just like cats, dogs also play hosts to a number of internal and external parasites. Good grooming and proper treatment can help prevent damage. Dogs also suffer from periodontal diseases as they grow older. Proper dental hygiene is the only way to prevent this.

Pet birds also suffer from a number of diseases; the most common among these is the Proventricular Dilatation Disease also called the 'Macaw Wasting Disease'. This causes seizures, weight loss and regurgitation. 'Parrot Fever' or 'Psittacosis' is another common bird disease which can infect people too.

Most pet owners love their pets to distraction, and when disease strikes, they feel helpless and unsure. Take your sick pet to the vet as early as possible. Always be vigilant and try to catch symptoms as soon as they appear. Since your pet cannot tell you about its headaches, tummy disorders or toothaches, you have to be extra careful.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140013&ca=Pets

Ear Mites In Cats By Evelyn Dayag

Cats, more than of the other common house-pets, are susceptible to ear mites. Fortunately, when caught early, an ear mite infestation can easily be treated. Knowing the early warning signs makes the difference between a minor inconvenience and a major irritation. If your cat experiences these warning signs, you should see a veterinarian as soon as possible:

* Itching
* Scratching the ears and/or head
* Head shaking, as if trying to shake the mites out
* Scabs and/or hair loss on the head or around ears

To completely eradicate the ear mites is, unfortunately, difficult. On the bright side, your cat has a number of treatment options to alleviate the irritation.

As many people know, including practicing veterinarians, the flea treatment called 'Frontline Topspot,' can also be used for treating ear mites. Frontline has been tested on cats and approved by vets to treat both fleas and ear mites at the same time.

Ear mites can spread! Sometimes, they leave the ears and settle on different parts of your cat’s body. Ear mites especially like to settle on the head. This is when flea control products work best. Another option is to use a 'once-a-month' topical treatment.

Ear mites can spread! Yes, we say it again, because ear mites are highly contagious and can easily spread from cat to cat. If you have two or more cats in the household and one of them exhibits symptoms, it would be wise to have all your cats examined for ear mites.

Armed with knowledge, and the latest medical products, you can protect your cherished pets from the terror of ear mites.

Even if cats can’t talk and tell us about it, we can guess fairly well that mites in their ears are a terrible discomfort for them. Fortunately, there are common cures to alleviate the condition. These are: topical treatments, oral medication and injections.

Topical preparations should be used for about a month, or enough time to cover the life cycle of the ear mite. The reason is that creams and ointments kill only the mites themselves but not the eggs they have laid inside your cat’s ear. Hence eradication will be complete only when the mites born out of the hatched eggs are eliminated.

Some topical ointments like Tresaderm contain antibiotics and other ingredients that treat secondary effects, such as inflammation and infection. They are more potent and can be used for as short a period as two weeks. Most of these types of ointments are popular among veterinarians.

Some veterinarians continue to administer medication directed at curing ear mites in cats via injection, without approval of the FDA for mode of drug delivery. Ivermectin is an anti-parasite delivered in shots numbering from two to four in frequency, depending on the severity of the cat’s condition. Frontline, a proven eliminator of ear mites, is another veterinary drug known to be dispensed in injectable form. Pet cat owners should proceed with caution if they want to try these injectables, since possible adverse reactions they may cause are not well known.

Remember that build up in the cat’s ears, especially those brown crusty debris caused by the mites, should be dislodged thoroughly prior to treatment proper. You can ask for help from the veterinarian if you do not know how to flush feline ears, or are not comfortable with the procedure.

As mentioned earlier, it is indeed fortunate that there are common cures that alleviate the problem of cat ear mites. Perhaps a complete solution or preventive system is just around the corner?

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=139497&ca=Pets

What To Know About Breeding Labradors By Michelle Bery

Breeding dogs – a pastime for some, a livelihood for others – requires patience, dedication, and adequate financial resources. The reasons for breeding are various – from the earning of money to the desire to produce champion show dogs. Breeding Labradors, specifically, is a time honored tradition taken on by those who have a great reverence for this beautiful breed of dog.

Breeding Labradors is done with the utmost respect for the history of the animal as well its place in the modern family home. Equally regal and unassuming, pure-bred Labradors are stunning creatures who were traditionally bred for their hunting ability. Today, breeding Labradors takes this history into consideration while still allowing for the modern Labrador’s family-friendly temperament.

In order to go about breeding Labradors successfully, it is important to understand the general distinguishing features of the animal. The Labrador Retriever can be easily recognized by its strong, athletic body, square jaw, short-haired and shiny coat, short triangular ears, and an otter-like tail. Medium in stature, the Labrador is a sturdy breed; it’s a working dog with a sweet and gentle temperament. The shades of their coats – yellow, black, or chocolate – change their facial appearances slightly. Because of their many attributes, the Labrador does quite well in a show ring and is often bred for these purposes.

The key to breeding Labradors, therefore, is to look to combine all the beautiful features that make it such a good work and show dog with the easy-going temperament that will allow it to be amiable in the ring.

If you are considering breeding Labradors for show purposes, it is best to thoroughly research what judges look for in the ring. There are very specific sizes that judges like to see that differ between male and female Labradors, as well as a variety of face and body features. Look into what makes a successful Labrador show dog before you begin the breeding process.

But no matter what you’re reason for breeding Labradors, if you do it properly and responsibly, you will gain an enormous amount of joy from this beautiful animal.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=140496&ca=Pets

All The Amazing Information About Helicobacter Ferrets By Rob Symonds

If you have ever heard of a helicobacter ferret and it brought to mind a cute pet that is adorable or maybe even you imagine a specific breed of ferret. Helicobacter ferrets are actually diseased ferrets that have a bacterium called helicobacter mustelae and it is incredibly common. As a matter of fact, some studies were done to test just how many ferrets in the common population actually carry this bacterium and most ferrets actually carry deadly bacteria. Typically a helicobacter ferret will display signs as the disease progresses and the pH in the stomach of the ferret will rise dramatically. In order to understand more about this disease, it is essential to understand that a helicobacter ferret is actually a little fellow that is suffering from chronic atrophic gastritis and peptic ulcer disease.

There is no documented conclusive evidence that suggests that helicobacter ferrets and gastric ulcers have any connection however in recent years, as more studies are being conducted on this subject, the evidence is slowly mounting that does actually tie the two together. So much so in fact that the mounting evidence actually is beginning to show a cause and affect relationship between helicobacter ferrets and ulcers in ferrets.

Treatment For Helicobacter Ferrets

Helicobacter ferrets can be very difficult to deal with because not all ferrets’ display the same set of symptoms and similarly not all ferrets go through the process in the same manner. There is usually a need to perform surgery on helicobacter ferrets especially in order to biopsy the regions of the stomach that is infected and in need of treatment. It must first be ascertained whether or not the disease has progressed and to what degree before deciding on an effect course of treatment. The animal doctor will have to properly assess the helicobacter ferret to help you decide an a treatment as well as perform other tests on the ferret to understand the levels of chemicals in the blood that may play a role in the disease.

Symptoms of a Helicobacter Ferret

There are several symptoms that a ferret will display if he is under stress from this bacterium that can be brought to the forefront so that people are more easily able to identify this disease early and treat it successfully. A common sign of a helicobacter ferret, and likely the most frequent one, is that the ferret will lose its appetite. It will become somewhat withdrawn and demonstrate loose and tarry stools as well as this, a helicobacter ferret is also prone to throwing up if it is infected with this bacteria.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141327&ca=Pets

Pet Horoscope By Renske Buursma

By using the twelve sun signs, you can predict with reasonable accuracy the various aspects of your pet's personality and character. Knowing your pet's sun sign will give you a fascinating insight into why they act the way they do! Here is a guide to understanding your little bundles of fur:

Capricorn: You are organized and methodical. Getting on well with fellow Capricorns and also with Taurean creatures, you are earthed and grounded. No flights of fancy for you! You like to be fed regularly and you are a creature of habit.

Aquarius: You love to play, especially if it means getting wet! Even Aquarian cats have been known to enjoy the odd paddle. Fun to be around yet intelligent and obedient, the humans will consider you their best friend.

Pisces: You are charming and love to admire yourself. That cute flashing thing you do with your eyes can melt the hardest human heart and make them give you as many treats as you desire. You know how to look adorable.

Aries: An Arian creature is full of energy and needs to be kept occupied or distracted, at least when they are awake. Full of the joys of spring, your owner had better lock their favorite slippers away unless they want them chewed to bits.

Taurus: Sensible, slow and stubborn, that's you. You know what you like and how you like it. You like routine. You don't even like your bowl being moved two inches to the left. You can give a perfect disdainful glare. If treated well, you are a loyal and true friend.

Gemini: There are two sides to the Gemini pet. One side is the fun, playful side and the other is their secret double life! Geminis can multi-task – play, chase toys and think about which shoe to munch on all at the same time. Not to be underestimated.

Cancer: You love to play catch and be noticed. Devoted to your owner, you make a loyal and dependable friend. You can be prone to idleness and like nothing better than a long lazy snooze.

Leo: You expect to be treated like royalty. No own brand food or second hand toys for you! When displeased, you make your feelings quite clear. When pleased, you are a lot of fun and a softie at heart.

Virgo: Innocent, naïve and cute, you are full of natural curiosity. Often found pitifully waiting, trapped in cupboards or wardrobes because of your nosiness.

Libra: You are friendly and sociable and like to stick to your owners like glue. Tripping them up constantly is just your way of showing love and affection. Surely they know that?

Scorpio: Egomaniacs to a fault, these pets are however totally loyal friends to their human counterparts. If you injure their pride, they plot their revenge intricately. Never underestimate a cunning Scorpio!

Sagittarius: Pets who are Sagittarians are funny and clumsy. Bringing delight with their daft antics, they love to make you laugh and try their utmost to make you feel good.

So learn yourpet's horoscope. Knowing your pet's sun sign will give you a fascinating insight into why they act the way they do!

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=141120&ca=Pets